Sometimes I add 50g (2oz) of pumpkin seeds, toasted in a moderate oven for four minutes or so.

Peel, deseed and chop the watermelon into 4cm (1?in) pieces. Place in a bowl, and add the crumbled feta, the finely grated lime zest, the lime juice and the chopped mint.

Toss gently and serve as soon as possible, ideally within an hour or so of making.

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Rachel Allen

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Molly Malone was a beautiful girl who sold cockles and mussels and died tragically of a fever while still young, or so the song goes. Molly may not have been a real girl, but since at least the 17th century, there have been fishmongers on the streets of Dublin who sell ‘Cockles and Mussels, alive, alive, oh!’

Cockles, with their distinctive flavour and lovely curved shell, are traditionally eaten in Ireland with Oatcakes (page 248). If you can only find mussels, this chowder will be just as good.

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