Tip the wild rice and a pinch of salt into a saucepan of boiling water and cook on a medium heat for about 45 minutes until the rice is cooked, but with a tiny bite still left. Bring another saucepan of water to the boil and add the white or brown basmati rice, whichever you are using, and a pinch of salt, and cook until tender. White basmati rice will take 10-12 minutes to cook and brown basmati rice 25-30 minutes. Drain well and return all of the rice to a single pan to keep warm.

Meanwhile, place the smoked haddock in a wide saucepan and add the butter, the milk and a pinch of the freshly ground black pepper. Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10-12 minutes or until the fish is cooked - it will begin to fall apart in chunks. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

Place a very large frying pan on a high heat and toast the cumin and the coriander seeds for a few seconds until just a shade darker, then remove the seeds and roughly crush them. (If you don't have a pestle and mortar, tip them onto a board and crush with a rolling pin).

Return the pan to a medium heat and add the olive oil. Tip in the sliced onions and saute for 6-8 minutes. Add the crushed cumin and coriander seeds, along with the cayenne pepper and garam masala. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook the onions for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until completely soft.

While the onions are cooking, bring a large pan of water to the boil, gently add the eggs in with a slotted spoon and boil for just six minutes until semi-hard boiled. Drain the eggs and run cold water over them. Peel them once they're cool enough to handle, then cut into quarters.

Tip the fresh or frozen peas, whichever you are using, into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 1-2 minutes, or until tender, then drain. The haddock should now be cool enough to handle, so remove from the milk (reserving the milk for later), peel away the skin, remove any bones and flake the fish into chunks of about 1cm (1/2in).

Now you are ready to assemble the dish. Remove the lid covering the onions and, leaving the pan on a low heat, add the drained wild and basmati rice, the peas, and half of each of the chopped coriander or parsley, whichever you are using, and the chopped chives, stirring to mix.

Pour over the cream, along with 50ml (2fl oz) of the milk the fish was cooked in, and gently stir to loosen the whole mixture. Add the flaked haddock pieces, season to taste, and stir gently together.

Transfer the kedgeree to a wide, shallow serving dish and arrange the quartered eggs on top, then sprinkle with the remaining chopped herbs and serve.