Magic is in the mustard

Mustard isn't merely a condiment, Rachel Allen says, as she shows ways to use the hot stuff, be it Dijon, English or the whole seeds.
 
The heat and intensity of good mustard is not to be sniffed at. It rivals even wasabi for nostril-searing power. For those who like to be loudly awoken by their food, that means huge dollops on sausages and sandwiches. Those who want only a little intensity from their dinner can still enjoy a little mustard stirred into cauliflower cheese or gravy.
 
I don't discriminate against mustards. I think each one has its time and place. Dijon, that fabulous French creation, is irreplaceable in a cheese Mornay sauce, and it is my personal preference to smother a sausage with. Smooth and rich, it does seem like the Rolls Royce of the mustard world. Dijon's cousin, wholegrain mustard, is a little rougher around the edges. Forever rustic, I like to stir it through the sauce for a chunky pork chop, or even use it to add a little intrigue and texture to a mayonnaise.
 
English mustard is usually the hottest of them all. Use in moderation! I think it is the perfect addition to a nice thick slice of cold ham and some buttered white bread. Lunch for a king!
 
Then we can go back to the source: the divine little mustard seeds that, pounded down (and with a few other ingredients), will become mustard the condiment. Mustard seeds are used extensively in Indian food. They have long been used to add depth to curries and sauces, fried in hot oil at the start of a dish.
 
The recipe for Gujerati green beans, opposite, is adapted from a recipe by Madhur Jaffrey, the beloved Indian cook and writer. Madhur showed us this recipe on one of her visits to the Ballymaloe Cookery School. It is such a simple recipe, yet it's still a great way of adding flavour to some green beans. Unlike in curries, where mustard is just one of a gallery of different flavours, this recipe really showcases the flavour that whole mustard seeds add to a dish.
 

Mustard Recipes: 

Shaneod Sep 22, 2014 News